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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.